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St. Paul chef Russell Klein (formerly of W.A. Frost) and his wife, Desta (who worked as a banquet captain at Frost), operate the classiest restaurant in downtown St. Paul. Their brasserie, in the charming Hamm Building in what was once the home of A Rebours, is named after an American wine made in the Bordeaux tradition, which seems an accurate reflection of the restaurant's cooking. Klein offers French classics--cassoulet, roast chicken, and steak frites--and a changing list of seasonally inspired American fare (past favorites have included chestnut-stuffed quail to venison loin served with a mulled-wine poached pear). The menu features a nice mix of gourmet fare (a two-bite mushroom ganache amusement, for example) and comfort food (chicken soup with matzo balls). Oh, and there's a cheese cart. If that's not a sign of class, what is? In warm weather, the restaurant operates a sidewalk crepe stand on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons.