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Can a roast beef sandwich be so good it's good plain--no sauce, no ketchup, no tangerine-colored cheese-goo? Yes, yes it can. Here at Maverick's, they do the most basic thing imaginable: You walk in, you decide if you want roast beef or brisket (like pot roast with no vegetables), you tell them. They stick the appropriate bun or kaiser roll in a toaster, slice the rare roast beef or ladle out some brisket, wrap the sandwich in foil, and hand it to you. Glory be. It's so good, it's good plain.