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Age has many benefits. It makes steaks deep and wine-scented, and wines rich and complicated. In people, it brings out the ability to recognize the value of those aged steaks and fine wines--and, if they're lucky, the ducats to pay for it all. And in a steak house, age confers prestige and a spot on the dining shortlist of local power brokers. If you don't know how to recognize them, consider eating elsewhere: Tables here are so close together that other players may easily eavesdrop on your best-laid plans.