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Cossetta’s full-service, fine-dining restaurant, Louis, is part of the Italian institution's massive, $15 million overhaul. The dining room is quite stately, and the formal, but not stiff, service cultivates an air of sophistication. Executive chef Tom Hommes has designed a menu of straightforward Italian classics: antipasti, pastas, meat and seafood, and desserts. The food is a bit hit and miss, but the menu is a likeable collection of favorites, and Louis has firmly established itself as an enduring centerpiece of downtown St. Paul.