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From the easy-on-the-pocketbook, not-so-easy-on-the-eyes Bangkok Thai deli in St. Paul, the owners have spun off Krungthep Thai in Minneapolis--a lovelier place, but with the same tasty soul. Krungthep serves the wonderful, addictive, spicy noodle dishes; slurpable, deep bowls of broth accompanied by piles and jars of welcome condiments; gorgeous plates of succulent whole fish; and the sweet, spicy, coconut milk green curry we've been dreaming of. The food is authentic enough to please world travelers, but it will also appeal to the pad Thai timid. It's a Cinderella story of how a little-appreciated deli crossed the river and took the crown of best Thai in town, told amid a firestorm of bird's eye chiles.