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Chef Don Saunders, the former proprietor of Fugaise, returns to the stove in a more inviting south Minneapolis space. The cozy, intimate dining room, which previously housed Café Maude's Armatage Room, offers a menu loosely based on what's "in season," locally and domestically, and using ingredients at their peak. That means root vegetables such as beets and rutabagas from Minnesota and Wisconsin farms join West Coast oysters and southern citrus. Saunders is a master of flavor pairings and meticulous technique, whether he's cooking Limousin beef tenderloin with baby turnips and sweet potato cubes or monkfish with garlicky spinach and five spice gnocchi. In Season has all the best attributes of a great neighborhood restaurant, but even if you don't live in Armatage, it's still worth a drive.