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Heidi's 2.0 picks up where its predecessor left off when it was tragically destroyed by a kitchen fire. The reborn restaurant elevates the chef-driven contemporary neighborhood eatery in a way that's both artful and savvy. Chef Stewart Woodman and his wife, the namesake Heidi, earned their stripes at several high-profile New York City restaurants, and while the original Heidi's space had a quaint, antique romance, the new one, with its art-filled dining room that resembles a theatrical set, seems to better reflect the restaurant's brash, creative cooking. Woodman builds on his former, boundary-pushing cuisine with more complex flavors, fancier platings, and molecular gastronomy tricks--everything from pickled beef tongue to a CO2-leavened, microwave-cooked version of the Chinatown pork bun. There's a sense of innovation and adventure on each plate, whether its miso-marinated salmon baked inside an orange rind, or semi-frozen chocolate mousse with dehydrated peanut butter. Between the food, the service, and the beverage lists, Heidi's maintains the standards of a fine-dining restaurant, with one major difference: None of the entrées is priced at more than $20. Such luxury has never been more affordable.