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The new Gold Nugget, which replaced the former shoebox-size dive bar beloved for its burgers, swapped character for class when it reopened in a massive new building with pretty wood booths, a faux tin ceiling, and suspended televisions. The Tavern and Grille's owners recruited a former general manager and chef from the D'Amico empire to inject fine-dining talent into casual fare. The Minnesota burger, for example, stuffed with a barely detectable amount of wild rice and topped with a portabella mushroom cap, may not be worth a drive across town, but it's certainly among the best burgers in the area. As is the Kobe burger, which has a more tender texture and a robust, steak-like flavor. The homemade tater tots, which are a sort of potato-based riff on the cheese-stuffed Jucy Lucy burger, have a delicate crust and molten cheddar core that put the frozen ones to shame. The new Nugget may have higher check averages, but it seems a fair price to pay for the upgrade.