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Fugaise

308 E Hennepin Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55414
612.436.0777
Website
Is young chef Don Saunders the most painstaking cook in Minnesota? Sometimes it seems that way, especially when you're sitting in his restaurant, Fugaise, and everything that arrives at the table looks like it was pieced with jewelers' tools: The ribbon of browned butter that meanders through a glossy lemon sauce surrounding a fillet of seared skate might itself have an inset thread of fresh-chopped herbs in oil; and on that herbed thread might rest the teensiest imaginable florets of cauliflower, and individual capers, each set tail-out like jewels in a necklace. Could you really ruin something so beautiful with your fork? Once you taste the skate, the answer is clear: Not only could you ruin such art with your fork, you could do it all day, gleefully. If Escoffier was whisked up from the great beyond he would surely approve of Saunders's meticulous efforts to achieve the heights of French cooking. Still, don't think that just because it's French it's expensive. Saunders does more with less: His white tablecloths are in a restaurant crafted from a windowless back room in Nordeast, and his staff is as young and eager to please as he is.
  • Cuisine(s): French, Health/ Vegetarian
  • Price: $$, $$$$
  • Parking: Street
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