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When the triangle of spinach pie is unceremoniously plopped in front of you, you'll be forgiven for not expecting much. After all, the room is inhabited by all of ambiance's nemeses: faux-wood paneling, too-close tables, paper placemats, a big refrigerator case as the dominant piece of furniture. Yet the spinach pie is light, the yeast-dough crust tender, the filling fresh. The little deli's other light fare--hummus, stuffed grape leaves, baba ghannouj--are all good, too, which is why this storefront on a quiet stretch of University wins our award as one of the top places in town to spread out a newspaper and feast alone.