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This humble cafeteria-style counter on one side of an indoor market has quickly become the least well-kept secret in the Twin Towns, because one taste of one of this joint's potent guisados is all it takes to get hooked. Guisados are the stewlike dishes the cafeteria offers as fillings for burritos and tacos, or alongside their soft, homemade gorditas; on most days there are about a dozen, freshly made. Favorites include the beef in colorado sauce, a smoky, silky red mole; a pork guisado based on tart bright green tomatillos; or a pollo a la diabla--satanically hot! Salsas are fresh daily, too, and a deli-style counter offers many of the guisados and salsas by the pint or quart, perfect for spicing up those north-country weekends.