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Hidden in the back of Calhoun Square, Chiang Mai Thai is one of the least likely of all possible restaurants: a stylish, contemporary northern-Thai spice rainbow featuring a wine list to make California collectors swoon. This treat is the product of owner Charles Lodge, who believes that his big-volume restaurant may as well also provide a playground for everyday people who don't ordinarily get to play in the wine big leagues. What to pair with your big-deal wine? Very reliable, boldly flavored, big and plain country Thai cooking, mainly. Of course, you can also get an $9 pad thai with your beer. Whatever your poison, Chiang Mai's odd combination of crowd-pleasing food and connoisseur-pleasing beverage has resulted in a hopping time for all.