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Reborn from the ashes of former fine-dining standard-bearer Restaurant Levain, Café Levain is a T-shirt casual, safe and sound little French-oriented bistro, with the emphasis on safe and sound. The French onion soup is the best in town--beefy as a steak, comforting as a quilt, and smothered with top-quality cheese, well browned. The roast chicken boasts a skin as crispy as bacon, and is craveable, good, and plain. The menu is remarkably brief, just a handful of entrees, a very few appetizers, and a dessert or three to pair with the wonderful wine list, but if you're in the mood for inexpensive comfort foods cooked with skill and grace and served with good wine, Café Levain is the safest bet in town.