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The Bulldog is big old bar-bar, the kind of place with napkin dispensers on the tables and hockey on the TVs, which also has steak tartare, house-made terrine, and elegant salads on the menu. Burgers are made with kobe beef, and the fresh, square-cut fries that arrive with the burger are as golden as croissants and taste as real as daylight. The Bulldog N.E. has a very nice little wine list, but the real drinking delights are in its remarkable beer selections--British import Young's Double Chocolate Stout goes far better with the unobtrusively gourmet-ified chili dog than wine ever could.