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Buca is the Cities' least-escapable restaurant because they handle big parties economically and efficiently, and the food is really pretty good. Old hands learn to ally themselves with like-minded friends and occupy a corner of the table where the rich and spicy Linguini Frutti di Mare (full of mussels, squid, and clams) are appreciated. If you're with a group that refuses to venture past the spaghetti with meatballs and the lackluster 1893 salad--iceberg topped with a dozen disappointments--well, you'll be singing the Buca Boyardee blues. But at least you'll sound good: The din and the Dean Martin on the sound system fill out even the weakest voice.