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This unprepossessing Grand Avenue house is our local Casablanca, our outpost of sunny Moroccan flavors, Tunisian spices, and casual Provençal style. Skip the tired standard menu items in favor of fantastic specials like b'steeya, a Moroccan dish of shredded chicken in a slow-cooked custard sauce, baked inside a phyllo-dough pie, drizzled with cinnamon and orange-blossom water, and topped with pears, figs, and apricots. Brahim Hadj-Moussa--everyone calls him Hadj--also makes a mean crème caramel and a formidable poached pear with mascarpone and chocolate. The restaurant's a perennial fave with vegetarians and dinar pinchers; if you want summer patio seating, arrive early.