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CLOSED. Aperitif is one of those chic, comfortable, upscale, contemporary suburban restaurants, with an open floor plan, high ceilings, oversize brown leather booths, doublewide bar stools, stone and wood accents, and a roaring fireplace in the lounge area. The servers may be a little green but they the do look smart - dapper, even - with their natty ties, striped dress shirts, and crisp white aprons. The menus, which are big as concert posters, list mostly Italian pizzas, pastas, and meaty entrées that lean into the likes of France (hanger steak) and Greece (flaming shish kebab), along with a few outliers like walleye fritters. Among these, the cioppino, a seafood stew laced together with a saffron tomato broth, is terrific: its smoky liquid turned a hunk of bread into a soft, creamy mush to be paired with bites of baby scallops or steaky fish. Aperitif may be a little pricey and a little 90s, but it is the nicest place to dine in the area.