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When Minneapolis chef Isaac Becker (formerly of D'Amico Cucina and Café Lurcat) and his wife Nancy St. Pierre (a decade in the front of the house at Cucina) opened their homey little downtown restaurant with its cozy booths, they changed the face of fine dining in Minneapolis. First, there's finally a spot for chef-created food until 1:00 a.m. on the weekend and midnight during the week. Second, there's a bacon-and-egg sandwich that will just about make your head fly off your shoulders with pure propulsive joy: a high-heat-fried, still creamy egg, sweet, chewy thick-cut bacon, white toast, a swipe of smoky harissa, that north African red-pepper paste, and a fresh sprig of cilantro. The real revolution here, though, is that, while they excel at fine dining, they're really Minnesota's first fine-dining industry insider's restaurant, a place designed to meet the very high, and very specific, fine food and fine wine expectations of people who spend their lives in the world of fine dining, but have the tax returns of an everyday Joe. And the upstairs space makes room for a lot more of those Joes.