Scusi is more focused, chef-driven, and upscale than the other Blue Plate eateries (Edina Grill, Highland Grill, etc.), but it still keeps things casual. Portions are meant to be shared--think Italian tapas--and dishes will come out to the table as soon as they're prepared. The lack of formality takes some getting used to for those who dined in the space when it was Heartland, the locavore's fine-dining temple. The two-room setup-open kitchen, dining room, and bar-is the same, but the vibe feels strikingly different, with the old art deco accents replaced by Italian ones, including checkered tablecloths and televisions playing muted European cinema classics. The famous alcove table is still intact and cozier than ever, as it's now outfitted with a plush red booth for side-by-side snuggling. Scusi isn't pushing any boundaries with its food menu-its biggest innovations are in its beverage program, with two wines on tap in kegs and all the others in a fancy storage system that keeps open bottles fresh and allows the restaurant to serve even the spendiest of its offerings by the quartino, or eight-ounce carafe. The menu offers lots of classics for snacking (cheese and meat plates, generous portions of good olives) and hearty eating during dinner (wood-oven pizzas, butternut squash risotto, house-made pappardelle with lamb ragout, osso buco) or brunch (Italian-style eggs Benedict or donut-holes known as zeppole).