The Parasole restaurant group, famous for its something-for-everyone menus, has lately been testing out a more focused approach. Mozza Mia, in the former Tejas space at 50th and France, offers a tight selection of fresh cheeses and wood-fired pizzas. The pizza crusts are sturdy for their size and tend to be heartily topped with everything from a classic fennel salami, provolone, and peperoncini to the decidedly un-pizza-like fig, prosciutto, blue cheese, and caramelized onions. Like our other gourmet pizza shops, Mozza Mia solidly executes its concept. Preferences between its pies and those of, say, Punch, Nea, Black Sheep, and Lola are likely to come down to personal taste. The most noteworthy differences at Mozza Mia involve everything else the restaurant offers. For example, The Grande Tasting platter serves up samples of the restaurant's house-made, cow's milk mozzarella and ricotta, plus imported smoked water-buffalo-milk mozzarella from Italy and luscious, tangy, domestically produced burrata. Mozza Mia is the only local gourmet pizzeria with a full liquor license and its best dessert is a liquid one: the house-made limoncello, drunk straight or blended with lemon gelato, citrus vodka, and cream in a beverage called Sgroppino.