Look behind the plate-glass window of this little storefront and you'll find the home of the Cities' best catfish--miraculously grease-free fillets as crisp as potato chips and just as devourable. Off-the-menu greens are a smoky delight (when they're available) and the pulled-pork sandwich is a cinch for the local barbecue hall of fame, its Brie-soft morsels offering the scent of summer bonfires. Set some fresh, milky coleslaw up top and winter in St. Paul starts to seem a lot like summer in Memphis.
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Authenticity is high on my list nowadays, since it seems to be fast becoming one of the rarest of commodities in restaurants. Anyone for spring rolls at Erin Go Burritos? Cheese steaks at Juan de Chang's?