Best Of


In a bold departure from the complicated, often overly fussy plates that have come to signal New American cuisine, the dishes at Lyn-Lake’s long-awaited Heyday, helmed by La Belle Vie alums chef Jim Christiansen and front-of-house manager Lorin Zinter, are mostly very straightforward and singular. Under other circumstances, that would be a Minnesota nice way of calling the food one-note. But the plates we enjoyed at Heyday, from the sweet clams in sherry with rye bread and sea lettuce to the exquisite filet of monkfish with thin yogurt and a few florets of roasted cauliflower, were all quite remarkable. It’s food that has the ability to be simultaneously surprising and very “what you see is what you get.” With the exception of more molecular-leaning desserts created with a big assist from La Belle Vie pastry chef Diane Yang, every element is recognizable and identifiable, clean and perfectly isolated but still playing nicely with the other pieces in the dish.