When you step inside Dulono's, the first thing that hits you is the smell of pizza--thin crust, cooked to maximum crispness, like a childhood pizza dream. Most longtime Minneapolis residents have a Dulono's memory, enhanced by those pizzas cut into squares, served in a room full of colorful pizza parlor domed lights, with beer signs on the wall. Dulono's is a great late-night stop, open till 3 a.m. everyday, with live bluegrass on weekends and a rollicking motorcycle night the first Thursday of the month that keeps the place packed. Unpretentious and delicious, that cracker-crusted pizza with homemade sauce, dough, and sausage is so fine, as is the fried chicken. Dulono's, which has been around since 1957, is a Lyn-Lake institution, down to the sign that always looks as if the letters are just about to fall off into Lake Street.