The St. Paul Christos (closed for renovations until December 2011) has one of the most fabulous of all restaurant spaces. Seated high on a platform in the middle of the soaring, neoclassical train depot, one expects Mel Gibson to hurry through with a briefcase of cash, or some French lieutenant's woman to collapse near the door. The dishes are all very good versions of Greek-restaurant greatest hits--moussaka, spanakopita, pastitsio, avgolemono soup, and the like. Be sure to get an order of saganaki, the Greek restaurant's pony show of kasseri cheese complete with a waiter ready to light a flame and melt it tableside. The Minneapolis location, with a white and bright courtyard feel, has a nice wine list with some interesting Greek wines, including the traditional resin-flavored Retsina; the St. Paul location has that, and a full bar.