Bukhara Indian Bistro, which replaced the former Istanbul Bistro on 394, brings classic strip-mall ethnic eats to an area that lacked them. The restaurant is operated by Joginder Cheema, a pioneer of the local Indian food scene who formerly owned several Taste of India and India Palace restaurants and owns three India House restaurants. Bukhara serves a relatively short list of north Indian Mughal food, including such classics as palak paneer and lamb vindaloo. The tomato-based sauces on shrimp masala and vegetable makhani are bright and intense, smothering perfectly cooked seafood and vegetables. Prepared with medium heat, both dishes leave a warm afterglow that can be cooled with a bite of the accompanying raita or lentils. The kitchen is proudest of its kebabs, which are prepared by rubbing spices directly into the meat before cooking it in a tandoor. The technique turns out chicken tikka with a firm but tender texture; a yogurt marinade lends a sour tang to the meat, and the clay oven imparts a pleasant smokiness.