Isaac Becker’s interpretation of a steakhouse, much like his interpretation of a boisterous Italian eatery (Bar La Grassa) and his interpretation of an after-hours bistro (112 Eatery), works so well it actually redefines how its patrons think of restaurants in this category. Burch isn’t stuffy or heavy or overtly masculine. It’s thoughtful, approachable, and gives diners myriad options when it comes to beef, in both price, cut, and quality. The dumplings are divine, too. The poppy-seed-speckled potato pierogi with golden raisins is a savory-sweet crowd-pleaser, but the spicy veal and pork kinkhali, topped with chili threads and swimming in butter, is the one to order. Desserts tend toward the old-fashioned side, often paying homage to European classics. Think warm Madeleines, fragrant pear galette, and super-springy, syrup-soaked Baba Rhum.