If Meritage gave us an updated taste of Paris in the 1920s, Brasserie Zentral, the newest from Russell and Desta Klein, gives us a modern twist on Budapest in the 1880s. We think of brasseries -- the white linen, all-day, full-service European analogue to our loose, Americanized gastropub -- as being an important part of France’s dining culture. But the Kleins are onto the broader range of brasseries across Central and into Eastern Europe. Anyone who has explored this region, once known as the Austro-Hungarian Empire, either in person or on a plate, knows how rich with tradition, delicious dumplings and doughs, and utterly fanatic about animal fat this area and its people are. Pair that culinary inspiration with a multi-award-winning executive chef, a dynamic bar program featuring a number of exclusive types of schnapps made by 45th Parallel, a storied dessert chef who is as agile with sweets as she is with savories, and an obvious commitment to formality in the dining room and technique in the kitchen, and you have a patent-worthy formula for a successful restaurant.