BEST DOUGHNUTS

Lone Doughnut Café
330 Second Ave. S.
Minneapolis
612.333.4195

Look for Kieran's pub on the ground level, walk in off the street, climb to the skyway level on the daffy staircase--one of the stupidest-looking pieces of interior architecture in American history--and behold the modest retail counter that is Lone Doughnut Café. Could it be that this establishment harbors the finest doughnuts in the Twin Cities? The cinnamon-and-powdered sugar oval makes a compelling case for the affirmative position. The flavor is subtle; some seasoned tasters might find it a little meek, even. But the texture is a textbook example of how to fry dough in oil: firm and crumbling on the exterior, cakelike on the interior. The maple-sugar glaze comes with coarsely chopped walnuts, creating a tasty, delicate skin. Perhaps best of all, you can enjoy these wonders--which range in price from 55 to 90 cents--while seated in a glass atrium decorated by a preposterously large American flag, with Sheiks Palace Royale visible across the way. The old Stars and Bars! Lady dancers! Hard-drinking immigrants! Doughnuts! This is City Pages' America.

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