With genuine, well-informed service, a beautiful wine list with some hard-to-find bottles and impressive vintages, and the kind of skillful presentation that makes even beets look sexy, Don Saunders's new restaurant in Kenwood checks off all the boxes when it comes to romantic dining. The casual cool of the stately yet cozy interior makes you feel instantly whisked away, as does the fact that the restaurant is situated in the middle of a quiet neighborhood rather than at a busy downtown intersection. Saunders's light touch and classic French technique are especially evident in dishes like butter-poached blue prawns with glistening sections of grapefruit and subtly bitter endive, perfectly loose risotto cooked with celery root and sweet Thumbelina carrots so cute you almost feel bad for eating them, delicate skate with rich brown butter and capers, and for dessert, a chocolate and ginger pot de creme big enough to share, but not so big that it makes you all weighed down by the time you (ahem) arrive home.