The doughnut is experiencing something of a renaissance — suddenly young people have gotten very interested in dressing up this humble pastry and taking her out clubbing. Experimental recipes can be found flying out of the fryers at places like the Doughnut Collective and from the guerrilla doughnut operatives at Dirty Donuts. While experimentation is always a good thing, A Baker's Wife takes the prize from a traditionalist standpoint. Its shining accomplishment: the perfect plain doughnut. While all the doughnut flavors on offer are delicious (chocolate, powdered, cinnamon sugar — all the classics), too many sprinkles mask what A Baker's Wife doughnuts do best. Even hours after they've cooled, they still have a little crunch on the outside, a light, fluffy cloud of cake on the inside, and the perfect sweetness. Word to the wise: The doughnuts are old-fashioned and so is the till. The shop doesn't take cards, so remember to bring your own dough.