You really have to love the kind of restaurant where the person who seats you is the same person who takes your order, cooks your food, and processes your credit card payment. Evergreen is one of many excellent Chinese restaurants along Eat Street, and even though the ambiance is a bit like a middle school cafeteria, the food has a certain magic. So many of the outstanding Chinese restaurants in the Twin Cities focus on Szechuan dishes — great news if you can handle the fiery spice — but if you'd rather relax with a comforting bowl of satay sauce lamb noodle soup, or perhaps a richly savory bamboo and pork belly stew, Evergreen serves up Cantonese, Taiwanese, and Hakka (mainly southeastern China) specialties. It has already cemented its place as a top dining destination for vegetarians by nailing dishes like the garlic-ginger seaweed knots, moo shu mock pork served with delicate pancakes for rolling up all the ingredients, and Vietnamese-style mock duck curry that uses coconut milk for richness and thus is safe for vegans, but equally delicious for everyone else.