In these, the halcyon days of the gastropub, the French fry is being taken very seriously. There are excellent spuds in many of the higher-end dining rooms about town, but to a purist, the perfect French fry needs neither a béarnaise nor a truffling nor a silver serving pail to be seriously good eating (and spending more than $5 for them is just nuts). Luckily, the fries being served up at Anchor are simplicity itself. The potatoes are hand-cut, blanched, fried to order, and tossed in a coat of kosher salt. No secret spice blend or overnight soak—the only thing secret about these taters is the exact concoction of oil that they're fried in. The result: fluffy and dreamy on the inside, crispy on the outside. They are the ultimate simple man's food on a simple man's budget—$2 for a small, $3.50 for a large.