Gentrification finally came to the old Nate's Clothing building in downtown Minneapolis. Out went the sports coats and dress slacks, along with the painting studio of artist Scott Seekins, complete with his wardrobe of all-black and all-white suits. In came a gorgeous, two-story dining room, with lounge furniture covered in fabrics as festive as those used in wedding saris and an elegant chandelier dangling over a reflecting pool. The restaurant that now inhabits the building, OM, has similarly transformed Minnesota's notion of Indian food. Out with the ubiquitous buffets, in with Raghavan Iyer's menu of upscale, Continental-style entrées flavored with Indian spice blends. The concept has produced, for example, wild salmon from western waters bathed in a Goan coconut milk sauce with turmeric, malt vinegar, chiles, cinnamon, garlic, and scallion. It's a delightful diversion from the Indian fare typical of these parts, and one of the best ways we've ever seen salmon prepared. At OM you can stick with the standards if you like—the okra with tomato, coconut shrimp, grilled paneer, and chai—but there are also martinis made with lime and Thai chiles if you want to spice up your palate as well as your style.