Making dinner plans for four to six people, and somebody else is picking up the tab? Book the chef's table at Cosmos in the Graves Hotel, which serves the most elaborate blowout in town. The kitchen charges an eye-popping $200 per person for nine wine-paired courses, which means, essentially, they spare no expense. If you've experienced some of the delights from Cosmos's regular menu—Wagyu beef shipped straight from Japan, Maine crab cakes with caviar, lobster salad topped with vanilla foam that looks like a child's bubble-bath beard—you'll know the ingredients are the best of the best. Give those raw materials to a kitchen staff with an inventive, whimsical style (the chefs have been known to dabble in a little molecular gastronomy) and you'll share in an abundance of artistic dishes served by one of the smoothest service staffs in town. Put it this way: When the Association of Food Journalists came to town, there's a reason it held its awards dinner here. If by chance you find yourself at the best-restaurant-when-someone-else-is-paying when you're the one paying, order the pre-theater menu, available daily from 5 to 7 p.m., when three Cosmic courses run just $35.