BEST CORN CAKES - 2008
Do you know what this is—this thing they call the "corn cake"? Perhaps you know it as cachapas venezolanas? It is round and flat like a pancake. It is moist and savory. It contains corn flour, butter, and cut corn. You sprinkle fabulously dry and sharp Cotija cheese on it. This, at least, is what the corn cake is at Maria's on Franklin, resurrected from the ashes of the beloved Maria's Breakfast Club. Elsewhere you might find it a little too dry or too sweet. And there might be no Cotija cheese. At Maria's the corn cake is honored and never alone. It is accompanied by sautéed yucca and huevos pericos and other delights from Maria Hoyos's splendid fusion of North and South American cuisines. Hoyos has done all of this for you—so that you may know the corn cake.