There are few reasons to find yourself in Nelson, Wisconsin. Perhaps you were in Wabasha, Minnesota, watching eagles and you got lost? Perhaps you're a truss-bridge tourist, and have come to see the one that spans the Mississippi in this physically beautiful but otherwise empty corner of the world? Or perhaps you have some super restaurant psychic juju, and you just know that this unmarked, unsigned, completely bare, naked, and barren-looking building holds not just commerce, but a kick-ass restaurant and—this is not a lie—a stand-up wine bar. An unmarked wine bar on the side of a quiet road in rural Wisconsin? Are we joking? We are not. Pop in for a glass of German Riesling ($6), or a Perrin Cotes du Rhone ($7), a board of cheeses from around the world ($15), and an individual pizza made with all kinds of things you usually don't find on the side of the road in Wisconsin. The place used to be a real-life cheese factory, but it isn't anymore, and frankly it's all we can do to keep believing it's not just a hallucination.