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BEST SOUL FOOD Minneapolis 2005 - Abundant Bistro - CLOSED

Abundant Bistro

609 University Ave. W.

St. Paul, MN 55103

651-209-1707

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Did you think hot-water cornbread was dead in Minnesota? Did you think you'd never see a credible hush puppy or drown your sorrows in a glowing mound of candied yams ever again? Yes, it was a dark 2004, with Lucille's Kitchen closing. But the whole point of soul food is that life is a glory and here to be led with passion and richness, and so all thanks for Abundant Bistro, which has come to give abundant soul to your life, and also to your dinner plates. At dinner they've got all the classics, like golden fried catfish, smothered chicken, and gooey rib tips, but don't miss the sides: Fresh yellow corn kernels are fried in a skillet with bell peppers till the whole mess is crackling with salt and country flavor; hush puppies are made perky with slivers of green onion in the batter; macaroni and cheese is as rich as Donald Trump, but far more down to earth; greens come in a bowl of liquor that's got more strength of character than a boatful of senators. And those yams. Those yams! Like the sun setting in a bright painted picture, as orange as imagination, veiled in a lace of cinnamon and butter. It isn't easy being soulful in a cruel world, but when you're soothed by food such as this, it gets a bit easier.

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