Stepping into the Golden Leaf is like taking a little field trip to a temple of tobacco. The near-intoxicating aroma of Burleys and Cavendishes, as well as the store's kaleidoscopic pipe and cigarette selection, can leave even the most diffident non-inhaler feeling just a bit enraptured. But the real benedictions lie in the shop's climate and humidity-controlled humidor, where, like cylindrical angels, some cigar-shaped objects soar upwards of 50 dollars. Fortunately, the high priests behind the counter are more than happy to enlighten.