A local critic recently wrote that all Twin Cities sushi tastes the same--thus revealing that they'd never had the blissful experience of sitting at the bar at Origami and ordering the "omakase," or chef's choice. That's where the sushi chef sitting before you creates magical course after course of ultra-fresh, inventive fishy treats, like fresh scallops glistening like pearls of cream, interleaved between see-through-thin slices of lemon. Like house-made unagi, each slice of eel as plump as a berry, rich and roasty with the special house grilling sauce. Like pretty little stripes of kohada, the speckled gizzard shad, wearing pretty Easter bonnets of fresh ginger. These meals run $40 to $60 per person or so, and present the restaurant in its best light, allowing the well-trained chefs, who have decades of sushi experience between them, to show what they can do. That what they can do is quite marvelous goes without saying. That it exceeds what others can do is something you can only appreciate if you care to pay attention.