BEST RESTAURANT--ST. PAUL - 2004
WA Frost and Co.
Ever since chef Russell Klein, veteran of the famed Danube kitchen in New York City, took over Frost's, the place has been marvelous. And not just better than it's ever been, but better than we ever imagined it could be. Out with the creamy old country club dishes, in with strikingly elegant arrangements like green and white asparagus stacked front to back and side by side, like a log-raft of spring. In addition to spectacular food, the restaurant now also serves many needs: Mussels with spicy chorizo sausage in a creamy broth are as unpretentious as they are delicious; dig through a whole bowl while unpacking the week's gossip with your best friend, as the two of you sit beside one of Frost's many fireplaces. Sample something from the extensive and ever-improving, ever-broadening wine list--a French and American Pinot Noir tasting flight, perhaps? For gourmets, it's a food destination: How about roasted Wild Acres duck with a port-wine reduction, alongside herbed spätzle and black pepper- and vanilla-glazed turnips? For groups, the tree-canopied summer patio is an irresistible draw. The revamped cheese program showcases the best that the world's cheesemakers have to offer, and just cries out to make your afternoon snack something memorable. In short, what a difference a chef makes!