BEST ITALIAN GROCERY - 2004
It's hard to know where to direct the eyes when inside Broders', so innumerable are the things you want. Do you look inside the case at the rich, fresh puttanesca sauce, bursting with olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, and red peppers, and just crying out for a bruschetta to ennoble or a pasta with which to dance? Or do you look into the back room, where the trays of said fresh pasta await your whim? There's always fettuccine, linguini, or pappardelle noodles just made, or full pasta sheets you can cut into whatever shapes you want, for ravioli, cannoli, or even maltagliati. But if you keep looking at the savory case with its bewitching array of salamis, cheeses from all over Italy, fresh, crispy slices of pizza, salads like the one of arugula topped with fresh-shaved parmesan or another of lemon-dressed asparagus, if you keep looking down there (hey, are those roasted figs? Yes!) then you might miss the cookie case. That cookie case, up a step near the back register, has Italian-American treats like real tricolore cookies and almond horns imported from bakeries in New York and New Jersey, confections that simply explode with the flavors of Italian American abundance. So the question remains: Where to look? No matter, wherever you rest your eyes your tongue will find something in which to delight.