Golden French fries in a silvery bucket on a white china tray--Bar Lurçat doesn't serve mere fries, it presents a treasure of spuds. The fries themselves are ultra-fried, crisp as the dickens outside, creamy and potato-rich inside. Each bite of these tawny 3-D stripes has you reveling in the texture of the moment, and chasing the next bite: Will it be more crisp? More earthy? More creamy? And hence an obsession is born. The béarnaise that accompanies them is less like a béarnaise and more like an intense cheese--piquant, salty, and lush. The price of $6 is steep, but the portion serves two, and you should keep in mind that you aren't just paying for fries, you're investing in treasure.