BEST WINE LIST - 2003
Chiang Mai Thai
There are so many good wine lists in the Twin Cities nowadays, trying to pick between some of our beloveds--Café Barbette's European cheapies, W.A. Frost and Company's deep back catalog, and Heartland's stash of restaurant-only allocations--is like trying to choose hotel pools from among a dozen in a resort's brochure. They all look great! And yet swimming through Jon Provenzano's list of a hundred-plus everyday wines is a singular joy, because not only are they chosen so well for everyday drinking (Cakebread sauvignon blanc for $29? What a nice way to have dinner!), but the list contains hidden depths, like the graceful Flowers '00 pinot noir for $39. And even more hidden depths after that: There's now a reserve "call list" of special wines you can have Provenzano or Chiang Mai Thai owner Charles Lodge bring in for you. What's on the call list? 1997 Spring Mountain Reserve cabernet sauvignon, a whole vertical of Joseph Phelps's cab blend "Insignia," and too many more to list. For there are beautiful pools, and then there are beautiful pools that twist and turn and seem to stretch on forever, to the horizon, and beyond.