The first thing that hits you when you walk into Golden Leaf is an aroma so rich and exotic that you might find yourself wondering if you've somehow passed through a time warp and landed in the personal warehouse of some Renaissance shipping magnate. Once you get your bearings and realize you're still in Calhoun Square, you're free to peruse the shop's walk-in humidor (a fascinating lesson in cigar lore in and of itself), as well as its ample selection of pipe tobaccos (with pipes to match), imported cigarettes, and just about every legal smoking accessory you can imagine. The smell is mighty nice, but it's Golden Leaf's vertigo-inducing array of goods and friendly, well-informed staff that makes shopping there an exercise even the most resolute nonsmoker can appreciate, if not enjoy.