BEST SOUL FOOD - 2003
This war has left a lot of people feeling out of joint with America. But if you want to remind yourself of what is true and real and good about this country, you could do a lot worse than to stop in at Lucille's Kitchen, the north Minneapolis soul-food spot of such excellence, it should rank in our top tourist destinations, right alongside the state capitol and the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Sundays are a great day to go to Lucille's. That's when the buffet runs from noon till 4:00 p.m. That's when, for a pittance ($10.95 for adults, $5.95 for six-to-12-year-olds, and $3.95 for the under-fives), guests can sup from a selection of soul-food classics as wonderful as they are traditional. Like what, you ask? Like sweet candied yams, streaked with spice, glowing like fireplace coals. Like collard greens, salty, smoky, and potent. Like macaroni and cheese as glossy as hope and twice as rich. The list goes on: smothered chicken, liver and onions, chicken wings, ham, banana pudding, sweet potato pie, peach cobbler. And, if you're lucky, little boys in little suits come straight from church, looking so young and pure that it will set you all at peace again in your heart.