BEST HOT DOGS - 2003
Stroll into this West Bank institution and you'll soon know the difference between the salted roadkill that passes for hot dogs in too many other joints and the succulent Vienna beef that the Wienery jams into its casings. The meat is pithy, juicy, and eminently flavorful. But the unpretentious proprietors here also know that true tubesteak transcendence requires a strong supporting cast and have accordingly filled their menu board with a surfeit of mouthwatering options. We often opt for the traditional Chicago, a dog slathered in mustard, relish, onions, tomato, peppers, and a pickle. But there's also the Maxwell Street, containing mustard, peppers, and fried onion; or the Warsaw, which adds sauerkraut and mustard; or the Tasmanian Devil, described as "a hot ass chili dog with habaneros." A full breakfast menu throws a "weenie mcmuffin" among its eggs and pancake offerings, and even pinko interlopers are appeased with "veggie dogs." To complete the experience, the Wienery provides some of the city's freshest French fries, and you can refill your soft drinks at the tap on the counter near the cash register. Cheap eats at an urban-style greasy spoon, the way hot dogs were meant to be eaten.