Enter this cozy, dark-paneled place, and garlic embraces you like Mama in My Big Fat Greek Wedding. Classic moussaka, spanakopita, and the lamb selections are sure bets. But daily specials, such as scallops Aekaga (with fresh bell peppers and plenty of garlic) and lamb shanks with roasted tomatoes, live up to their sunny promise. The gyros--grilled pita piled high with spiced lamb or beef--will have juices trickling down your elbows (for under $7). Dinners (with salad and side) range from $12 to $20. The house specialty, broiled octopus, is so delicate and sweet that our 19-year-old server confessed he orders it every shift. The patio, sheltered by trailing vines, is a living breezeway between the restaurant and the Jungle Theater. What could be better than a warm summer evening with friends, basking in the glow of sunset and ouzo? Maybe a selection of mezedes (triopetes, keftedakia, flaming saganaki), or the flaky, sticky baklava and galakotoboriko (phyllo wrapped créme caramel). Opa!