Walked into Nardie's the other day. (Nardie's, in case you are not of the fried chicken pursuing persuasion, is the little back-of-the-bar joint at the nightclub Arnellia's.) And people were piled up around the soul-food window like they were handing out gold back there. Which, in a way, they were: golden chicken wings, fried up so crisp you could hear them split and pop as you bit into them. Set some smoky collard greens, potent candied yams, or dusky black-eyed peas next to those wings (or next to some fried catfish, if you'd rather--it's almost as good) and you'll find yourself lining up in front of that window as often as you can.