As we noted the hubbub last spring over Krispy Kreme's Maple Grove opening, we couldn't help wondering what all the fuss was about. Didn't people realize that the most heavenly of all confections--the chocolate butter cream square--had existed for years at Sarah Jane's Bakery in northeast Minneapolis? Made by sandwiching a rich cocoa butter cream between two doughnut halves and topping it with a smear of chocolate frosting, the square is only one of many delights baked through the evening and served fresh in the a.m. by owners Kevin and Sarah Lovgren. Since they purchased the Johnson Street bakery in 1979, the husband-and-wife team has tempted grateful customers with Scandinavian treats: real maple sticks, cardamom-spiced cinnamon Danishes, and an old-fashioned doughnut with a firm, sweet glaze that gives way to fluffy yellow cake. Let the unfaithful have their mass-produced little glucose overloads. We'll stick with the chocolate butter cream square. Friday mornings offer the best selection, so get there early, when the doughnuts are warm. These goodies (all under a buck) are so good that even as you appreciate the rapture of each bite, you realize, with melancholy, that one less morsel remains. The solution is simple though: Go back, buy another, and give thanks that Kevin met Sarah.