BEST DIM SUM - 2003
My Le Hoa - CLOSED
Dim sum should probably come with a warning from the Surgeon General--or be banned outright as a threat to the public health. With 86.2 percent of Americans already wearing elastic-waistband pants, the last thing we need is a marathon meal where food comes to your table on a cart, whether or not you ordered it. Yet this is the delightful health peril presented by dim sum, mostly bite-sized delicacies brought from table to table for your inspection and gluttonous consumption. Popular Chinese restaurant My Le Hoa gets the carts wheeling each Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and experienced eaters can pace themselves for a two-hour-plus meal. Some storied Hong Kong restaurants prepare hundreds of different dumplings and rolls and dishes; My Le Hoa seems to serve some four to six dozen, ranging in cost from roughly $2 to $5. (The price notation system on one's ticket is indecipherable to mere novitiates.) Of course, as this isn't bustling Hong Kong but rather a Little Canada strip mall with a Curves for Women fitness center nearby, the dim sum offerings are perhaps a little doughier and greasier than in some other cities. (The comfortable, family-friendly dining room is itself jumbo-sized.) But no one should pass on the shrimp toast, the Chinese broccoli, or the steaming-hot shrimp dumplings. And even if you do pass, before too long another tray will be coming around to tempt you.